Steps to make a decorative window top cornice using ribbons and flowers.

The lightweight cornice takes little time to make and can add height and definition to any window.

1. The cornice has four pieces: the main piece, two sides, and the top. To make the cornice frame, cut 1/2 inch thick Styrofoam sheets to the dimension of the window. To determine the width of the window, measure it to the outside edges of the moulding. Cornices are generally six inches deep, so cut the sides six inches wide and to the height of the main piece.

2. Glue the pieces together with a glue gun, and pin them in place to allow the glue to set.

3. When the glue is dry, remove the pins, and pin 3/4-inch thick quilt batting on the main panel and the sides.

4. Cut the fabric that will cover the cornice to the size of the cornice plus three to four inches all around.

5. Hem the fabric by ironing fusible tape onto the edge. Remove the paper from the tape, turn the fabric under, and iron it again for a finished edge.

6. Place the fabric on the cornice, and fold it neatly around the front and sides of the frame, pinning or gluing it in place.

7. To add a ribbon trim, make a template out of cardboard to help position the ribbon. Line the ribbon up with the template, and hot-glue it in place.

8. Use an L-bracket or Velcro to attach the cornice to the wall.

Materials Required:

1. 1×4 pine lumber
2. wood glue
3. nails
4. hammer
5. scrap paper
6. MDF (medium-density fiberboard)
7. jigsaw
8. palm sander or 220-grit paper
9. terra-cotta pots
10. compass
11. drill
12. drywall screws
13. latex primer
14. paint
15. 6′ piano hinge
16. 3 L-brackets

Steps

- The first step is to measure the window and decide on the placement of the cornice. It must be positioned so that it will cover all blind hardware, and still allow for movement. Add an extra two inches, plus the thickness of the 1″ x 4″ (which is 3/4 inch) for a total of 2-3/4 inches on each side of the measurement of the sheer rod or blinds.

- You will begin by building a U-shaped frame. Cut one board to your predetermined length. Cut two side pieces eight inches long. Attach the sidepieces to the top panel with wood glue and nails.

To create the front face of the cornice, measure the outside dimension of the frame and cut out a piece of MDF (it cuts much easier than grained wood). Draw and cut a template to size for the front piece in the desired pattern. Trace it onto MDF and cut it out using a jigsaw. Soften the cut edges using a palm sander or by hand.

- Mount the front face to the cornice frame using wood glue.
To create the planter shelf, cut a 1 x 4 board to length. Determine the placement of the potted plants on the shelf. Cut holes big enough to accept pots in a 1×4 board by marking the center of each hole and using a compass to draw the diameter needed. Drill a hole on the inside of the circle near the pencil line, and then cut each out with a jigsaw.

- Mount the planter board to the front face of the cornice by adding wood glue along the edge, and securing it in the back using drywall screws. Since our window was quite wide, we decided to add three supports to the planter board, as well.

- Prime the frame and the cornice front, and then paint as desired. Once it has dried completely, mount the two pieces together using the piano hinge. The piano hinge makes it easier to install the cornice, and also allows the cornice front to flip up, allowing for easy blind removal and cleaning.

Steps:

1. Measure the window from the outside edges of the surrounding molding. Add four inches to the measurement to determine how much Styrofoam is needed for the cornice.

2. To add scallops or another pattern to the cornice, draw the pattern on paper, and transfer the design onto the Styrofoam. To cut the Styrofoam, use a serrated steak knife coated lightly with candle wax. To smooth the edges, rub them with a scrap of foam.

3. Measure and draw the pocket into which you will tuck the fabric across the top of the front section of the cornice. Then score it lightly with a blunt pencil.

4. Cut a strip of fabric 1/2 inch wider than the pocket measurement and three times the width of the front of the cornice. Then, tuck it into the pocket with a putty knife while shirring the fabric.

5. Cut a piece of flame-retardant batting to fit the area below the pocket. Glue it into the crease with a needle-nose glue gun. Be sure to use low-melt glue when working with Styrofoam. Alcohol will remove any glue that gets on the putty knife.

6. Tuck the main fabric over the batting.

7. Repeat this procedure for the area over the pocket. Then add cording or other trim.

8. Attach the side pieces to the front piece with wood picks as toothpicks are too flimsy. Add a drop of glue to the end of each pick before pressing it into the foam. Be sure to work on a flat surface.

9. Wrap the cornice with fabric as if wrapping a package, clipping and gluing at curves. Then line the cornice with fabric.

Materials Required:

1. Styrofoam
2. utility knife
3. straightedge
4. tape measure
5. tooth picks or wooden meat skewers
6. cutting snips
7. low-melt hot glue gun
8. vinyl spackling
9. wide putty knife
10. large variegated rubber stamp (or sea sponge, old comb, steel brush, etc.)
11. terra-cotta colored acrylic paint
12. stucco
13. extra long L-brackets
14. strong craft glue

Steps:

1. Take the measurements needed for the pattern:

Front: Measure the window width, adding approximately four inches on each side to cover the window. Allow for additional width of Styrofoam plus the depth (eight inches).

Sides: Measure out how far from the window the cornice is to hang (eight inches ) plus the length of the cornice to match the front (eight inches).

2. Make a cardboard pattern for the cornices. Cut it so there are two pieces: one for the front and top and one for both of the sides.

3. Using the cardboard pattern, mark and cut the front, top and two sides with a utility knife. Score the material half way through, and then hit it using the edge of a flat table. File rough edges with another piece of Styrofoam.

4. Assemble the cornice by first creating the frame (three pieces that resemble a double-ended “L”) using toothpicks or meat skewers. Lay the frame on its side and push picks all the way around.

5. Place the fourth side on top and press down. Clip off any excess picks that are sticking out, and then reinforce or fill holes using a glue gun.

6. Apply vinyl spackling over the outside of the frame, being sure to cover the bottom but not the side that will be flush against the wall. Add texture while the spackling is still wet by dabbing it with a rubber stamp or sponge (press down and pull straight up). Let dry overnight.

7. Brush on terra-cotta color as sparingly or generously as desired and let dry.

8. For a concrete look, apply spackling as above; add texture and let dry overnight. Apply stucco in long strokes with putty knife. Let dry.

9. Set the cornice on brackets attached to the wall. Reinforce with glue if desired.

Materials Needed:

1. 1/2″ plywood with smooth finish on at least one side
2. Wallcovering border, border adhesive, sponge applicator
3. Wood glue, wood filler, medium-grit sandpaper
4. 16 x 1 1/2″ brads, nail set
5. Primer suitable for paint and wallcovering
6. Paint to coordinate with the edge of the wallcovering border
7. Angle irons, pan-head screws or molly bolts

Steps

1. Measure and cut the plywood for the top piece of the cornice to correspond to the inside measurements of the cornice, as necessary for the clearance of the undertreatment.

2. Cut the cornice front piece to the expanded width of the wallcovering border. (To determine the expanded width of the border, apply adhesive to 6″ of border and fold in half. Allow to set for 5 minutes and remeasure the width. This will give you the expanded measurement.) The cut width of the cornice front is equal to the width of the cornice top plus two times the thickness of the plywood.

3. Cut the cornice side pieces equal to the expanded width of the wallcovering border by the depth of the cornice top.

4. After all your pieces are cut, glue and nail each side piece to the top piece. Glue and nail the front piece, aligning it to the top and side pieces.

5. Countersink nails and fill the nail holes with wood filler. Sand front and side surfaces and edges until smooth.

6. Apply primer and allow to dry. Paint lower edges and top of the cornice, extending paint slightly over the edges to front and side. Paint the inside of the cornice.

7. Cut the wallcovering border equal to the distance around the sides and front of the cornice plus 4″. Using your border adhesive, center wallcovering on cornice, wrapping wallcoveirng around the back edge of the cornice just to the inside edge of plywood and trim any excess paper.

8. Secure angle irons on the inside of the cornice top, near the ends, and at 45″ intervals or less. Hold the cornice at desired placement, making sure it is level. Mark the screw holes on wall or window frame. Remove angle irons from cornice and secure them to the wall, using pan-head screws or molly bolts. Reattach the cornice to installed angle irons.