Cutting Tips
All machinery used to machine wood will become more efficient when used properly. When it comes to making clean, glass like cuts, a sharp chopsaw blade is in order. As seen in the illustration above, with a sharp cut, there no sanding required. Seams are truly seamless. Three things contribute to a seamless joint:
Back bracing the cornice for a tight fit (as describe earlier)
Cut at a 30-degree angle to increase the surface area, 45 degrees would be too sharp a corner and flake off leaving a gagged edge. (more…)
Compound Miter Settings
This should allow you to visualize what each corner will look like before cutting. Now that we’ve cut a few pieces, it’s time to pin them up in place. We will require a Compressor and a Pneumatic Finishing Nail Gun. The reason for the nail gun is simple, when set properly; the nail gun automatically counter sinks the nail heads about a ¼ inch into the cornice. This allows for an easier time when finishing (we’ll get to that later). We normally have the compressor set to between 98 and 110 psi. Installers, who have never worked with MDF before, should test and adjust the air pressure as needed for their specific equipment. We find the best fasteners for the job are 15 - 18 gauge brad and pin nails approximately 1 ½ to 2 inches in length. We apply a pair of nails on both the top and the bottom of the cornice every 12- 16 inches in an “X” pattern. The “X” ensures that even if a joist wasn’t caught with a nail the cornice will not fall down because the “X” creates a fastener in the drywall. (more…)
Moulding Installation Instructions
Set up / Necessary Tools / Installation
First we have to look for a large open floor area to cut; normally the garage. Our cornice comes in 12, 14 and 16 foot lengths; look for an area where you will be able to cut lengths of that size. We look for a spot outside otherwise the MDF dust will get everywhere. All cutting is done on the floor using a Compound Miter Saw with a 10 inch draw. The draw is the distance the saw arm can cut in one pull. Although the cornice comes in various widths up to 7 inches, the width of the cornice increases in direct correlation with the angle of the miter. The difference between a compound and a normal miter saw is that the compound allows you to make both a Bevel and a Miter cut at once. Cornice requires a two angled cut because it is installed onto the wall and ceiling on a 45 or 52 degree angle. Unlike baseboards which are installed flat onto the wall and only require a single angle cut (or a miter). The reason our installers cut on the floor is quite simple, the cornice is too long and moves too much to be cut accurately on a table.
Take out your Measuring Tape and start measuring the walls that are going to be finished. Measure as accurately as possible down to the closest 16th of an inch. Make sure you note the Inside and Outside Corners. To explain inside and outside corners, imagine a perfect square, if you are standing inside the square, you will only see inside corners. If you walk around the outside of the square all you will see is outside corners.
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Moulding Installation Instructions
Installing Cornice
Many people think that cornice is very difficult to install. Others think it very simple because they saw the guy on T.V do it in half an hour. The truth is cornice can be done by the do it yourselfer, with the right tools and a little bit of patience. Please be aware that this guide is meant for the first time installer, so some of the terminology and things that come as second nature to professionals will be explained thoroughly. There are many schools of thought when it comes to installing cornice; this guide will teach you the method our installers use. It’s not to say that the other ways are wrong but we find that this method works very well for us.
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